The changing of the seasons is coming to the Pasco area. You will want to make sure your trees and shrubbry is prepared for the chance. Here are some of the most important things you should be doing and looking for.

Prepare The Planting Hole
When preparing any hole for an incoming shrub or tree, make the hole two to three times wider than the current root mass, but don’t make it any deeper than the plant was growing in its previous environment. An even better guide with trees is to look for the flare of the trunk near the soil level. Don’t place the tree in the planting hole so deep that any part of that flare is covered with soil. The truth is, even nurseries sometimes put plants in containers too deeply. There have been many times where I’ve actually had to pull away soil to get back to the base of the trunk flare. Make a habit of checking this.

Plant High
I go even one step further by placing transplants in their new environment with up to a third of the root ball higher than the surrounding soil level. I then taper soil up to cover all the roots and add a generous layer of mulch above that. Newly disturbed soil has a tendency to settle and plants growing below grade can easily succumb to root rot or disease. In my book, it’s always better to plant a tree or shrub slightly high and allow the area to drain than for a plant to sit in a bowl and collect excess water.

We look forward to being your first call when it comes to tree maintenance in Pasco. Don’t hesitate calling us to ask us what you think are the smallest questions. We can’t wait to help you and have the chance to earn your business.

The changing of the seasons is coming to the Kennewick area. You will want to make sure your trees and shrubbry is prepared for the chance. Here are some of the most important things you should be doing and looking for.

Pruning In The Fall: Wait a Little Bit
In early fall, pruning wounds close more slowly and plants are more at risk for fungal diseases than at other times of year. For most trees, the best time for major pruning is late winter to early spring because wounds close faster.

Pruning in late summer and early fall may also stimulate new growth, which has little time to harden before cold weather comes. The cold can harm this tender new growth, and the tree may need more pruning in spring to remove the damage.

Mulching
Using mulch is a highly effective method of protecting fruit trees in fall — specifically their roots. Mulch, during the growing season, should not be more than a few inches thick, but in the winter, a little extra doesn’t hurt*. Just be sure to rake away the excess mulch material once the temperatures warm up in the spring. It’s useful to note that not all mulch is created equal, and, for winter protection, there are some types of mulch that get the job done better than others.

Effective Types of Mulch for Winter Protection — these provide insulation and also break down, adding to the soil:

• Wood chips
• Pine needles
• Bark mulch
• Evergreen boughs (great way to recycle Christmas trees!)
• Straw

Ineffective Types of Mulch for Winter Protection — these don’t provide much heat retention and don’t add nutrients to the soil:

We look forward to being your first call when it comes to tree maintenance in Kennewick. Don’t hesitate calling us to ask us what you think are the smallest questions. We can’t wait to help you and have the chance to earn your business.

The changing of the seasons is coming to the Tri-Cities area. You will want to make sure your trees and shrubbery is prepared for the chance. Here are some of the most important things you should be doing and looking for.

Water
Water the tree’s roots. Don’t waste time watering the tree’s leaves. Water the soil, where the roots are. We recommends watering within the drip line of a tree, from the trunk out to the end of the branches, to reach the roots most effectively. The water-absorbing roots are within the top two feet of soil; you want to keep these roots moist but not wet.

Avoid frequent, light watering. Instead, water deeply at wider intervals such as once a week.
Let a hose run slowly at the drip line of the tree, moving it around occasionally. At medium pressure it will take about five minutes to produce ten gallons of water.

If you are using a sprinkler system, place a straight-sided container under the sprinkler and water until it has filled one to two inches. If you deliver the equivalent of one to two inches of rain, the water will percolate into the soil about six inches, reaching the fine, water-absorbing roots.

Soil
Check the soil. There isn’t a good way to look at the soil and tell how much water is in it. Dry soil can cause death of roots and reduce a tree’s ability to absorb water, even after the soil is re-watered. Drought can increase a tree’s ability to get sick and infected by insects. To check the soil’s moisture, use either a hand trowel, a soil probe, or place your finger into the soil. Very dry soil will resist penetration and indicate the need for watering.

We look forward to being your first call when it comes to tree maintenance in the Tri-Cities. Don’t hesitate calling us to ask us what you think are the smallest questions. We can’t wait to help you and have the chance to earn your business.