Tree Maintenance

Continuing from part 1 of Tree Planting, we want to discuss the importance of planting your trees logically and smartly. Here is the continuation of those tips:

Be diligent and cautious – Before digging, contact your utility company to mark the location of any underground lines. You could be liable for damage done to such lines.

To prepare the site, mark a circle or square at least 3 times the diameter of the tree’s root ball. Excavate the area with a pick and spade. In clay soil, dig to a depth 2-4 inches shallower than the height of the rootball. In sandy soil, dig to a depth equal to the root ball. Leave the bottom of the hole firm and undisturbed.

To the excavated soil, add 25 percent, by volume, of a coarse organic amendment, such as sphagnum peat, compost or aged manure. Mix it well with the excavated soil; this becomes your backfill.

Plant Your Tree Properly – Try to plant trees when the weather is cool, cloudy and humid, but not windy. If you can’t plant right away, keep the tree in a cool, shady, protected spot and keep the roots moist. It helps to soak bare root trees and shrubs in a bucket of water overnight before planting.

Remove any plastic or metal containers from the root ball. Place the tree upright in the center of the planting hole. If the tree is in a fiber pot, tear off the sides. If the roots of a containerized tree are pot bound, “tease out” some of the roots and shallowly slit the rootball’s sides with your knife.

For balled and burlapped trees, cut any rope tied around the trunk and pull the burlap away. Cut any reinforcement wire, removing as much as possible, but be sure the root ball stays intact.

Shovel backfill into the hole; continue until roots are covered and most of the backfill is used. Don’t tamp the soil with your feet.

In Conclusion
Top Tree strives to earn your business. In order to do that, we ensure the best practices that are consistent with optimal tree care, our arborists are properly trained, and our customer service is top notch. If you are searching for a tree maintenance company in Kennewick that is superior in every way, we would like to earn your business.

Continuing from part 2 of Tree Planting, we want to discuss the importance of planting your trees logically and smartly. Here is the continuation of those tips:

Fertilize Sparingly – Don’t put fertilizer into the planting hole; it may cause root injury. Next spring, fertilize young trees lightly.

Root stimulator solutions have negligible value. You can use them, but they aren’t necessary for transplant success.

Water Liberally – Water the soil at relatively low pressure, using the hose or a “bubbler.” Let the water, not your foot, settle the soil. If the soil settles below grade, add more backfill. When done, the planting area should be well-soaked and moist backfill should barely cover the top of the rootball. Watering frequency depends on the soil, not the calendar. Dig with a trowel on the edge of the planting area. Soil that feels moist and holds together when squeezed doesn’t need water. Overwatering drives air from the soil, causing root suffocation. Frequent, light watering promotes shallow root development. Mulching will reduce watering frequency.

Send your trees into winter with a good supply of moisture by watering them thoroughly in fall. Water during extended warm, dry periods of winter to prevent drought damage to roots. This is especially important for trees planted the previous year.

Prune When Needed – A newly planted tree needs only minimal pruning. Prune out only dead, diseased or injured branches. Research shows that transplanted trees establish quicker when as much foliage as possible remains. If you do prune, don’t use pruning compounds on pruning cuts.

In Conclusion
Top Tree strives to earn your business. In order to do that, we ensure the best practices that are consistent with optimal tree care, our arborists are properly trained, and our customer service is top notch. If you are searching for a tree maintenance company that is superior in every way, we would like to earn your business.

Continuing from part 3 of Tree Planting, we want to discuss the importance of planting your trees logically and smartly. Here is the continuation of those tips:

Use Stakes Smartly – Trees can be staked too tightly or for too long. Don’t stake small trees or those not in the wind’s path.

Large evergreen trees, planted in a windy site, will need staking. To stake,do not use garden hose and wire. Instead run wire through grommeted staking straps or use wide strips of carpeting. This way, the straps, not the wire, passes around the trunk. A year of staking usually is sufficient.

Rigid staking of a tree is counterproductive; research shows trees don’t develop normally if they’re not allowed any sway.

Mulch With Purpose – A forest tree provides its own mulch with several inches of leaves on the ground. We can imitate this by mulching the planting area with 3 to 4 inches of wood chips, chunk bark, straw, pine needles or shredded leaves. Don’t use plastic beneath the mulch; water or air can’t penetrate it. Fabric-type weed-barriers are preferable.

One thing you won’t see in the forest is manicured lawns around a tree. Research shows that newly planted trees are at a disadvantage when they must compete with grass for water, air and nutrients. Keep grass from the planting area for at least one year. If you mulch around trees, instead of planting grass, you also prevent possible trunk damage by lawn mowers or string trimmers.

Winter Is a Wrap – Use crepe paper or other wraps on your deciduous tree trunks about Thanksgiving time; remove the wraps around Easter. Do this for the first 2 to 3 seasons. This protects young trees from winter sunscald. If you’ve purchased a tree with the trunk wrapped, remove the material now; otherwise the wrap could harbor insects and diseases over the summer.

Continuing from part 3 of Tree Planting, we want to discuss the importance of planting your trees logically and smartly.  Here is the continuation of those tips:

Use Stakes Smartly – Trees can be staked too tightly or for too long. Don’t stake small trees or those not in the wind’s path.

Large evergreen trees, planted in a windy site, will need staking. To stake,do not use garden hose and wire. Instead run wire through grommeted staking straps or use wide strips of carpeting.  This way, the straps, not the wire, passes around the trunk. A year of staking usually is sufficient.

Rigid staking of a tree is counterproductive; research shows trees don’t develop normally if they’re not allowed any sway.

Mulch With Purpose – A forest tree provides its own mulch with several inches of leaves on the ground. We can imitate this by mulching the planting area with 3 to 4 inches of wood chips, chunk bark, straw, pine needles or shredded leaves. Don’t use plastic beneath the mulch; water or air can’t penetrate it. Fabric-type weed-barriers are preferable.

One thing you won’t see in the forest is manicured lawns around a tree. Research shows that newly planted trees are at a disadvantage when they must compete with grass for water, air and nutrients. Keep grass from the planting area for at least one year. If you mulch around trees, instead of planting grass, you also prevent possible trunk damage by lawn mowers or string trimmers.

Winter Is a Wrap – Use crepe paper or other wraps on your deciduous tree trunks about Thanksgiving time; remove the wraps around Easter. Do this for the first 2 to 3 seasons. This protects young trees from winter sunscald. If you’ve purchased a tree with the trunk wrapped, remove the material now; otherwise the wrap could harbor insects and diseases over the summer.

In Conclusion

Top Tree strives to earn your business.  In order to do that, we ensure the best practices that are consistent with optimal tree care, our arborists are properly trained, and our customer service is top notch.  If you are searching for a Tri-Cities tree maintenance company that is superior in every way, we would like to earn your business.